Sunday, May 5, 2019

WHW Day 4 - May 4, 2019 - Inverarnan to Tyndrum


WHW Day 4 - May 4, 2019 - Inverarnan to Tyndrum

Distance – 23.65 k; Total Time on the Trail – 7:40:01;  Avg Overall Speed – 3.5 kph; Walking Time – 5:34:51; Avg Moving Speed – 4.2 kph; Elevation Gain -  548 m; Temperature: 0 C (due to the 30 kph NNW wind the “feels like” temp was -5C!! Trail: a relatively easy walk – a mixture of terrains and views – farmland, forestry, and riverside walks; Overnight - Clifton Cottage (2 nights)

Our walk today was much easier than yesterday, and the countryside and trails quite varied. We started by crossing the river Falloch and following a series of tracks and paths that climbed slowly up the valley of the river. Also heading up the valley are an active railway, and the highway. I quite like the clackety clack clack of the British railway trains, but the constant moan of the highway, and especially the incredibly penetrating sound of the motorbikes, were quite intrusive on the peacefulness and beauty of the landscape. We followed a rocky old military road that climbed up the northern side of the valley and eventually we reached a sign to Crianlarich. We had opted for eating in a restaurant for lunch vis a vis carrying a packed lunch and so took the 1.5 k diversion into Crianlarich.







Apparently the military road system in Scotland was started in 1715 as a reaction to an uprising in Scotland against the English throne. The remoteness of the Scottish terrain made it hard for armies to penetrate the country. So, General Wade was sent up to Scotland to build a series of roads to help communications to keep the Scots in order. He built about 250 miles of roads, and others continued the task until well over 1000 miles were built. There was another uprising in 1745 which emphasized that the military aims of the road system were not met….(i.e. the Scots could not be kept in order!!) none the less the roads opened up the Highlands for commerce.

After lunch we walked through a really interesting farm run by the SRUC or Scotland’s Rural College. The college combines education, consulting, and research focusing on agriculture. Here we saw our first Highland cattle….not too far away but not close enough to capture in photo. There was also a graveyard with some stones dating back to the 6th and 7th Century, as well as ruins of the first monastic settlement of St Fillan.  We had some short steep climbs in the afternoon, but nothing we couldn’t handle!!









We heard today that there is a trail race on the WHW; not sure what the fastest time is, but the person that told us knows someone who did it in 18 hours!

We have been astonished at the lack of trees on the hills and of course realise that years ago (before the 1700s) the slopes were logged. There is still clear cutting going on today! Some areas are being reforested which is good to see, and today we walked through some of those forests, one of which was a replanted larch forest mixed with maybe Scotch Pine.

There were more burns to cross, we crossed under the highway a couple of times and towards the end of the walk, we passed the lochan where Robert the Bruce was said to had ditched his sword after losing the battle at Dalrigh. Turns out that is debateable! The sword has never been found!! Ah, the Scots like a good story!!

We arrived at our B & B in Tyndrum, settled in, went for dinner in the very small village, and came back to relax at the B & B before drifting into dreamland

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